We were now heading toward the snow.

From Matsumoto we caught a local slow train to Iiyama Train Station (around 1 hour).

I marvel at the ability of the Japanese to instantly fall asleep on public transport, seemingly knowing exactly when to wake to alight at their destination.  Train journeys are hence quiet.  The slow train journey gave us plenty of time to enjoy the mountainscapes as we climbed higher and higher.

It was our first sighting of snow on the ground as we left Iiyama Train Station to transfer to the Nozawa Onsen Bus for the final leg of the trip, a quick 20 minutes.

What a beautiful ski resort village tucked in between mountains.  We’re not skiers or snowboarders (at all), we’re too old for such energetic and adventurous pursuits, but we do appreciate the sport and Nozawa Onsen Resort was high on our list for a snow experience.  We could hang out in chalet’s and drink gluhwein with the best of them!

It had been snowing quite a bit when we arrived and our inner children came out during the short walk from the bus stop up a hill to our hotel.  We hadn’t played in snow for years and there we were, kicking snow drifts, slipping and giggling on the icy roads.

The view over this resort town from our hotel was breathtaking.

Another traditional ryokan Japanese style room, but the beds this time were permantly made up which I was secretly glad about.  It made an afternoon rest and book reading so much more comfortable.

Honourable Jeeves made an appearance again 🙂

Jeff is really getting into the public onsen bathing now, and this hotel has not only male/female onsen baths inside the hotel, but also male/female onsens outside in the snow.  Of course, Jeff had to partake in the outside onsen experience.  I could see him from our hotel room on dusk as he was unashamedly prancing around the onsen, looking down the hill over the village.

It was dark but I could still make out the silhouette of this cheeky man.

Throughout the Village, there were many public onsens to choose from.

Our chosen restaurant for the first night was another small husband/wife team restaurant.  The food was really good – we had a salmon salad, a thinly sliced pork dish with a delicous sauce and chicken teryaki.  There was raw horsemeat on the menu and Jeff was keen, but I refused to let him order that.  I love horses and I certainly wasn’t going to have raw horsemeat on the table.

Sliced Pork (not what we expected – it looked a little more European)

We loved this restaurant so much – the friendliness, the ambience and the food – that we went there again the next night where we ordered the Salmon Salad again, but this time had Sauteed Mushrooms in Butter as well.

We awoke the next morning to a snowy winter wonderland scene.

Out walking through the Village, we came across a Museum housing an interesting history of the Village.  Beautiful stained glass in the tower.  There was a local art show showcasing amateur artists who were all keen to chat.

We were not going to be around for the famous Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival (called Dosojin) which occurs every year on the 15 January.  But there was a small replica of the massive Shrine Pavilion which would be constructed on a local patch of ground, made with trees and timber that reaches approximately 17 metres high in the Museum.  There was also a model of the villagers depicting the Festival.

Walking around the Village, we came across this gorgeous original Nozawian woman who bailed us up on our walk with a 20 minute one sided animated conversation.  We had no idea what she was talking about but it didn’t seem to matter.  Very chatty indeed!

No trip to a ski resort is complete without a chairlift ride to the top (or at least half way) up  the mountain.

Street Food

Oyaki Buns -the perfect street food – warming and delicious steamed buns with fillings of spicey japanese vegetables – yum!  Just the thing, especially paired with hot ginger wine (of course).

Nozawa Onsen – we thank you for a great stay.

Jeff and Catherine xx