After a couple of weeks in bustling cities, then the slower pace of rural landscapes and icy coastal towns, we found ourselves heading deep into Hokkaido’s snowy interior. The train from Otaru returned us to Sapporo, where we boarded a bus that climbed steadily into the mountains, the landscape gradually disappearing under thick layers of snow.

This was our final stop in Japan – Furano. And, we were excited, for a different reason. Views from the train and the bus constantly showcased the changing landscape as we traveled higher, away from the coast.

We had travelled halfway around the world to spend Christmas in a ski village with our daughter and son-in-law, who were already there for a snowboarding holiday. It felt a little surreal, swapping an Australian summer Christmas, hot and dry with salads, ham and fresh prawns, for one in the snow, wrapped in scarves, snow boots and layers, the landscape white and still and accompanied with warm Japanese food.

How exciting it felt to greet my daughter in another country. We’d both been traveling for some time and our reunion was special.

Our home for the next few days was the charming Snow Crystal Pension, warm and welcoming against the winter cold. What stood out most though was the view from our window. Each day, we would gaze out at the landscape, finding it hard to comprehend it was Christmas.

Christmas in Japan – it’s Festive, but Not a Holiday

Unlike Australia, Christmas in Japan isn’t a national holiday or a religious celebration. Most people continue to work or go to school on December 25th. Yet, there’s still a festive vibe in stores, shopping centres, and restaurants often decked out in lights, with Christmas decorations and music playing in the background, creating a very Christmas atmosphere.

Japanese Christmas Differences

• Christmas in Japan is more about romance and food than family gatherings. It’s treated more like a date night for Japanese couples.
• One of the more surprising Japanese/Western Christmas traditions is eating fried chicken. A custom that dates back to a 1970s marketing campaign by KFC. With turkey difficult to source, fried chicken became the festive alternative, and today many Japanese families pre-order their Christmas fried chicken weeks in advance.
• Traditional Western customs, like a big Christmas lunch, gifts under Christmas trees, puddings, and family gatherings are less common.

For visitors like us, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day felt both familiar because of the decorations and music, but surprisingly different at the same time. We loved the snowy streets, hearing the carols playing in stores softly in the background, and watching life go on as usual, with no difference to their lifestyle. It felt kind of surreal.

Christmas Shenanigans

To help get us in the Christmassy mood, our daughter had arranged festive outfits. Dressing warmly with layers and donning Christmas sweaters did the trick. It was fun, reflected in our family photo shoot.

And, as always, our memories quickly became intertwined with food.

Christmas Day lunch was Ramen at a small family-run café close to our Pension.

While waiting for our bowls to arrive, I noticed a photo of two Corgis sitting proudly on the counter. Having bred these delightful dogs myself for many years, I couldn’t resist asking about them.

What followed was one of those simple but memorable travel moments – a warm, animated conversation with the owner, despite our limited shared language. Between smiles, nodding heads, hand gestures, and a few translated words, we connected over a mutual love of this fabulous breed.

It was a small interaction but a treasured travel moment, proof that sometimes common passions bring people together in unusual circumstances.

Then our steaming bowls of ramen were served, warming us up, but that unexpected connection was what I recall the most.

Just outside our Pension, the owner served homemade mulled wine from a small van.

Warm and gently spiced, it was the perfect way to thaw out after a day exploring. My daughter and I huddled together, big jacket and beanies, with hands wrapped around our steaming cups, savoring each sip. A delicious moment.

One lunch, we caught a taxi into town for a shabu-shabu dinner, a quintessential Japanese hot pot experience. Bundled in our coats and scarves, we shuffled carefully from the taxi across icy paths and were immediately welcomed into the warmth of the restaurant, aromas whetting our appetites. Perched at the counter, a small cast-iron pot filled with stock bubbled in front of us. It was an interactive experience with much anticipation as fresh vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, and thinly sliced meats were added one by one.

The fun was in the dipping, the swishing, and waiting for each ingredient to be cooked.

One evening we enjoyed yakiniku, a traditional Japanese BBQ where we cooked our dinner over a small grill at the table. We slowly grilled tender meats and vegetables, chatting and sharing tastes as each piece reached perfection. It was relaxed, fun, interactive, and such a lovely way to spend the evening together with the kids.

A stroll around around town after dinner.

Christmas night, we carefully navigated the semi-cleared snowy footpaths down the hill to a French restaurant. Because, really, why not? French and Japanese cuisine make an unexpectedly perfect pairing. I did have a brief “moment” on an icy patch when my feet went completely out from under me, landing me flat out on the ice. I lay there staring sheepishly up at concerned faces, relieved that thankfully no harm was done. It was one of those slightly chaotic, memorable adventures that makes for great family dinner storytelling.

Because it was French, we simply had to order the duck.

When it came to dessert, we couldn’t decide, so we indulged in a little of both, sharing tastes and savoring each bite.

Even though we aren’t skiers, we couldn’t resist exploring the slopes. Braving the cold, we rode the chairlift to the very top of Mount Furano, taking in the snow-covered landscape despite the weather. It was very chilly (around -27C) and we didn’t stay long. It was an unforgettable way to experience Furano.

And, just like that our white Christmas adventure came to an end. We slowly retraced our steps by bus and plane back to Tokyo for our flight home. Leaving family behind as their holiday wasn’t done yet, was bittersweet.

The slow, snowy days in Furano were filled with many meals together, exploring quiet snowy landscapes, navigating often slippery streets and footpaths, making snow angels and enjoying moments filled with fun and new experiences. It left us with memories we’ll cherish forever.

Jeff and Catherine