Chinon – the Loire Valley

As we left Nantes, we picked up our brand new lease car from the airport.  This will be our chariot for the next 10 weeks.

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It’s always challenging to get used to a different car, plus the added stress of driving a left hand drive on the opposite side of the road.  Glad it’s Jeff doing the driving!

With the GPS programmed with our destination of Chinon (in English thank goodness), and our seatbelts firmly on, off we set.  Renault only give you 10 litres of diesel so a petrol station was a high priority.

We nearly missed the turn to the airport petrol depot.  Signage would have been helpful French people!

Jeff quickly ducked into the driveway without realising it was one way and very narrow.  What ensued was a heart pumping 5 minutes while performing a 13 point turn with traffic backed up all the way to Nantes.

At last, with the fuel tank topped up, off we set again.  There was only another one or two sphincter clenching moments and then we were on the dual highway and on our way – phew!

We arrived in Chinon virtually unscathed to be greeted by roadworks and a detour.  The GPS quickly rerouted us towards the town centre taking us down what looked like footpaths where the car only just fitted.  Proximity sensors on the car were screaming at us which wasn’t helping – as if we didn’t know it was a tight fit!

The photo below was not the worst of it – I didn’t get a photo as I had my eyes closed.

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Our Accommodation

All worries and stress melted away when we saw our accommodation.  It was everything we had hoped for – warm and comfortable with a very French medieval charm.

By the way, it’s not always me on the lounge and Jeff in the kitchen!

Chinon is well known for its wine and the castle/fortress on the top of the hill overlooking the town.  It is full of history.  The town is built on the banks of the Vienne River about 10km from where it joins the Loire River.  Settlement in Chinon dates from prehistoric times, i.e. it’s really, really, really old.

Chinon played an important role during the Middle Ages, having served both French and English kings.  King Henry II (an English King) lived in the fortress on the hill during the 1100s.  Richard the Lionheart was Henry II’s son.

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Looking down over the town from the castle.  Our apartment is down there somewhere…..

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We did walk through the castle.  It was fascinating and there were a load of spiral staircases to navigate.  My legs are still sore.  It was not furnished but there were some beautiful tapestries.

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Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc had quite a history in Chinon.  It was here in Chinon in 1429 that she gained an audience with Charles VII to convince him of her visions to drive out the English from France.   “Jeanne d’Arc” is seen around Chinon – a street name, a restaurant name, a carpark named after her and a statue.

That’s enough history!

The Town Square

It’s the hub of the town.  Built around a fountain, it is lined with restaurants and it’s the place to be at lunch time and then again late afternoon for coffee and drinks.

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We initially adopted the local tradition of making lunch our main meal.  This is where you get a 3 course lunch (Menu de Jour) for around 15 euros.  Everyone drinks wine with lunch and most of the neighbouring businesses are closed from 12noon to 3pm.

We are loving the French way of life!

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We also knew that this lifestyle was unsustainable for too long, although it is rare to see a French citizen who is overweight.  How do they do it?

So, we are now eating more simply most of the time and cooking at home.  Jeff is enjoying the local markets where his school French is being put to the test where we are able to buy plenty of fresh wholefood produce.

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Jeff made this very delicious Moule (Mussel) dish with ingredients all sourced from the markets.

L’Ardoise – Chef Stephane Perrot

We treated ourselves to dinner out on our second last night in Chinon.  It was recommended in the information folder at the apartment reading “a relaxed, more informal, laid back bistro type restaurant with a really excellent French menu done by a very creative chef”.  We were in!

We have to say that it was far from informal and laid back.  We were treated to a fine dining experience to say the least. The food was superb and the staff were excellent.  To top it off, our bill was surprisingly low.

Entree – Carpaccio de St Jacques with Caviar Shavings

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Mains – Raviolli St Jacques in a coconut sauce, and Tournades of Fillet of Beef with Creamed Parmesan

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Dessert – Creme Broulee with Grand Marnier, and Baked Apple with a Hazelnut Icecream

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It was all so very delicious but very rich and we didn’t sleep well after.

We could live here!

Jeff and Catherine xx

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