From Armidale to Dorrigo – road trip!

What a year 2020 has been, and it feels so good to be exploring again, even if it’s still confined to the borders of New South Wales.

There’s something energising about setting off early in the morning with destinations previously unvisited in mind. Even though I’m not naturally an early riser, I can rally to get out the door at Jeff’s designated departure time without too much grumpiness, though a strong coffee is non-negotiable.

It was a rainy start to our road trip heading north along the Hume Highway. Grey clouds and dull skies surrounded us and the random bursts of rain make me glad we packed for all weather. It was only 12 degrees!

Morning tea time and Eling Forrest Winery & Cafe was coming up. We arrived just in time for a huge downpour.

Our route took us on a scenic drive through to Gloucester via the Stroud Road. It was a long drive, surrounded on both sides with grazing land, but most notable was the chicken and egg farms. Sheds full of chickens! A night spent with friends in Gloucester was the perfect stopover. How good does this colourful vegetable bake look that our friends were just about to pop in the oven.

On the way out of town the next morning, we scoured the shops for a coffee, somewhere local and to get more of a feel for Gloucester. We found a friendly cafe but unfortunately our coffee will be remembered as rated “third worst ever” on our list.

Armidale

From Gloucester to Armidale the landscape was hilly with stunning views over green valleys. We wound our way through the ranges to Peterson’s Winery & Guest House, a rather grand historic house for a one night stopover.

What a gorgeously well presented hotel, our room being large and beautifully appointed.

A walk in the grounds in the afternoon followed by wine tasting in the old stables, and then a long soak in the claw footed bath – what a perfect romantic destination indeed! We dined at the in-house restaurant beginning with champagne on the terrace as the sun dipped.

The entre we shared was superb, one of those dishes where you wish you’d ordered one each – salt & pepper prawns with a lemon/horseradish mayo and a lime/tomato salsa. The main was orange & smoked paprika salmon with pumpkin dumplings and walnut salsa. It ticked all the boxes but was a little disappointing as unfortunately the dumplings overpowered the dish. All was saved with the pear, port & raisin crumble served with vanilla ice-cream. It was so good, I forgot to take a photo 🙂

We said farewell the next morning after a good country breakfast of poached eggs, bacon, tomato and mushroom.

waterfall way

Driving along Waterfall Way to Dorrigo, the landscape unfolds offering many different scenes. It felt good after lockdowns and months spent at home. The road curved past previously lush rainforests, now bearing the scars of bushfires, with glimpses of rushing rivers, then cascading waterfalls, farms and many different sights. Every bend revealed a new scene worthy of a stop, a photo opportunity and a brief immersion in nature.

Dorrigo

Perched on the edge of the Great Dividing Range, Dorrigo sits about an hour inland from Coffs Harbour along the scenic Waterfall Way. A quaint town of around 2,000 people, we chose to stop for a few days to explore staying at The Lookout Mountain Retreat which was newly refurbished and quite comfy.

The area around Dorrigo became a timber and dairy hub in the early 1900s, thanks to its rich red volcanic soil and high rainfall. Today, it’s quiet and feels like a classic country town with a strong creative streak weaving through the locals. There’s still the heritage shopfronts, but now with local galleries and welcoming cafés scattered through the main street.

Lunch was at the Components Cafe. I’d have to say that this was the biggest zucchini & corn fritters, haloumi stack I’ve every seen, and paired with a rather large chicken, leek & tarragon pie, we were stuffed. Big meals. Big flavours.

Dorrigo is the gateway to Dorrigo National Park, part of the Gondwana Rainforests World Heritage Area, known for its ancient rainforest walks and sweeping escarpment views stretching toward the coast. We spent hours wandering through here.

Just a few minutes from town, Dangar Falls offers one of the region’s most accessible and photogenic waterfalls. Plunging around 30 metres into the Bielsdown River below, the falls are impressive year-round but particularly dramatic after rain. A short walk from the car park leads to an elevated viewing platform, while a steeper track takes you down to the base for a different perspective.

dorrigo labryinth

There’s something magnetic about a labyrinth. At first glance it looks like a maze, but it’s actually very different. A maze is designed to confuse you and a labyrinth has one single, winding path that leads you to the centre and back out again. No dead ends. No wrong turns. Just a gentle, deliberate journey.

Labyrinths date back thousands of years and represent a pilgrimage, a healing, or a personal transformation and the cyclical nature of life.

Walking a labyrinth is about rhythm. The slow, repetitive movement helps settle the nervous system. Physically, you’re simply walking, but psychologically and emotionally, it’s like you’re unwinding. The walk inward can feel reflective or releasing, pausing in the centre can feel like a stillness, and then the walk back out can feel like a resolution.

By the time we wound our way back down the escarpment to Bellingen on our homeward leg, Dorrigo had done what the best country towns quietly do, it slowed us down. This trip was quietly memorable.

Catherine & Jeff