Strahan, Tasmania

Leaving Lake St Clair, the weather was still rainy and overcast. As we headed west the road began to feel quieter and more remote. Dense forest closed in on either side, the temperature stayed steady and cold but light shifted constantly from dark gray clouds to the odd patch of sun. This stretch of Tasmania feels untamed with fewer towns and fewer people. It’s about a two and a quarter hour drive, with a stop in Queenstown for lunch.

Strahan sits on the edge of Macquarie Harbour, and its story is deeply tied to Tasmania’s rugged past. Once a busy port supporting mining and logging of huon pine on the west coast, it also played a darker role as the gateway to Sarah Island, one of Australia’s most notorious penal settlements. Today, the town feels peaceful and unhurried. But there’s a strong vein of history that runs through the town and surrounding areas which is proudly on display.

We booked a three night stay at Franklin Manor, a beautifully restored heritage boutique hotel, formerly the Habour Master’s home, with an ambience that feels both elegant and welcoming. The rhododendrons and azaleas were in full bloom and surrounded the manor, adding to the heritage feel. On entering we were met with luxury, enhanced by guest lounges with open fires burning, stained glass, antique furniture and welcoming staff – perfect after a day on the road when the temperature was chilly and we were ready for warming up and pampering.

Our room was spacious, elegant, well appointed and comfortable – the kind of place you’re genuinely happy to come back to at the end of the day to relax.

One of the highlights was the on-site French-inspired restaurant “Charlottes”, where local Tasmanian produce is given centre stage. Thoughtful and beautifully cooked food by a french chef, excellent wine, and a relaxed atmosphere made it more than just a hotel stay. We ate at Charlotte’s on one night and were not disappointed.

The choices for breakfast were French inspired as well – tasty and delicious.

Strahan is small, but there’s plenty to explore. Hogarth Falls is an easy walk from anywhere in town (it was almost behind our hotel) following a lush, green track to a pretty waterfall cascading amidst the rainforest, that is hidden away. It’s a reminder of how close nature surrounds you here when a short stroll around town delivers a mossy forest, the sound of birds, a waterfall and the sea.

The Gordon River cruises are a big drawcard, taking you deep into World Heritage-listed wilderness, while the West Coast Wilderness Railway offers a glimpse into the area’s mining past, chugging through rainforest and along dramatic river valleys. Even if you don’t take every tour, simply walking along the boardwalk around the foreshore there are many historical stories displayed. It’s the perfect walk while watching the light change over the harbour and this simple activity feels like an experience in itself.

The short drive out to the rugged coast on the northern edge of Tasmania feels raw and remote, even by west coast standards. The landscape opens up to pounding Southern Ocean swells, powerful winds, and a shoreline that looks both beautiful and unforgiving.

Where the Franklin River meets the sea, the entrance is notoriously dangerous, with shifting sandbars and powerful currents – a stark reminder that this is a place still very much shaped by nature and you can only imagine how treacherous and precarious ocean voyages were in days past with many ship wrecks hidden beneath water and sand. The sense of danger still hangs in the air and gave us a deep feeling of what it must have been like – imagine travelling for months in wooden ships only to meet your end with the destination in sight. It’s a coastline that doesn’t let you forget its past even though it is spectacular.

We found the food scene in Strahan was all about Tasmania’s bountiful seafood. Fresh seafood features heavily on every menu – at pubs and cafes with dishes that were hearty (think seafood chowders and battered fish and chips) that suit the west coast climate. Simple, honest food that reflects the environment.

Three nights in Strahan felt just right. Long enough to slow down, soak up the atmosphere, visit some local attractions and appreciate the layers of history and wilderness that make this part of Tasmania so distinctive.

Next stop – Cradle Mountain.

Catherine & Jeff