Another border crossing into Croatia as we made our way down the Istrian Peninsula. Sitting at the head of the Adriatic Sea between the Gulf of Trieste and the Kvarner Gulf, Istria is shared by Croatia, Slovenia and Italy, and the influences of all three can be felt throughout the region.

Our destination was Pula, the largest city on the peninsula and its gateway to the sea.

The Port City of Pula has a huge protected harbor, ideal for ship building, and a beach lined coast. With its deep natural harbour, waterfront setting and long history as a strategic port, Pula has attracted settlers, traders and conquerors for centuries. The city has been shaped by many hands – from the Romans and Venetians centuries ago, and in more recent times with the Allied Forces in World War II.

We found it welcoming, relaxed with friendly locals who seemed genuinely proud of their city.

And then there are the Romans. They certainly got around.

The Pula Arena is one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world, dating back to the first century AD. Rising unexpectedly above the modern city, it’s impossible to ignore. Standing beneath its towering stone arches, we found ourselves asking the same question we often do when confronted by Roman engineering: how on earth did they build something like this nearly two thousand years ago?

Strolling around the seating gives you a sense of what it was like when full of Romans, and when we walked through the centre of the arena it actually gave us chills as we imagined being a gladiator – the excitement, the crowds, the noise (a little like a modern day football game) but we could equally imagine the fear.  The underground rooms have been well preserved.  Very eerie.

Today it’s used for concerts and sporting events.

Pula was our first taste of Croatia, and we were looking forward to discovering what Croatian food had to offer.

We checked into Hotel Amfiteatar, conveniently located just a short walk from the Pula Arena, and arrived in time for a late lunch in the hotel restaurant. What we expected to be a light meal quickly became something much more memorable. The chef emerged from the kitchen to chat with us about Croatian cuisine and proudly introduced us to a succession of small dishes showcasing his specialties.

One plate led to another, and before long our planned snack had evolved into a rather substantial lunch. So much for good intentions. At least it gave us an excellent excuse to spend the afternoon exploring the city on foot.

With a focus on fresh seafood and local flavours, our first foray into Croatian food was a delicious introduction to the country and left us eager to discover more.

White Anchovies on Homemade Bread (which were a little like scones made in Australia).

Tuna Cappacio with Mustard

Scampi and Octopus Skewers on Chard & Potato

A late dinner after walking, walking and more walking, choosing a restaurant near the water, where we were delighted that our waitress had been to Australia.  We kept the seafood theme going with a fresh Seafood Salad and Spaghetti with Seafood.

Pleasantly surprised by the quality of the house wines served in 1/2 and full litre jugs.  Big smiles from us.

Sadly, only one night in this southern Istrian city.

Jeff and Catherine