A long day in our little red car today.

Heading north after Svetvinčenat, Jeff had a destination in mind – the tiny village of Zrenj. He’d read about it somewhere and was intrigued. We’ve learned over the years that intrigue is usually worth following.

When we arrived, we were so caught up in the experience that we forgot to take a photo – something that almost never happens. This isn’t our image, but I wanted to include one anyway as a reminder of this unexpectedly memorable and impossibly quiet little village.

Photo Credit – Google Images

After kilometres of winding roads, steep climbs and the occasional single-lane section with fairly precariously committed drops off the side, we finally arrived expecting to discover the village that had sparked our curiosity.

Instead, we found… almost nothing.

The village seemed completely closed. No people. No open cafés or shops. No movement. We wandered around quietly, half expecting someone to appear, but no one did. It was the weirdest feeling, peaceful rather than eerie though, and left us wondering whether we had arrived at the wrong time, missed something entirely, or simply experienced village life exactly as it was meant to be.

Very intriguing indeed and we’re still intrigued by Zrenj.

As we wound our way through the Istrian countryside, we came across a completely unexpected sight – a field scattered with stoneworks beside the road. There was no fanfare, no explanation, just this curious collection appearing where we least expected it. One of those travel moments that makes you slow down, look twice, and wonder about the story behind it, but never finding the answer.

To help orient ourselves (and you), here’s where Hum sits in Istria.

Hum is officially listed by Guinness World Records as the smallest town in the world in 2017. I’ll admit I’ve seen smaller places in Australia on our travels….. (just saying) but apparently population matters here. In the 2011 census, Hum had just 21 residents.

Hum

On its western side, Hum is enclosed by stone walls, while on the remaining sides the houses themselves form part of the defensive barrier, an efficient use of both space and protection in a town where every metre mattered. First mentioned in historical records in 1102, Hum has existed in one form or another for more than 900 years.

The bell and watch tower was added in 1552 as part of the town’s defences and still stands proudly today. In those days, being perched up there wasn’t just about the view, it gave residents time to spot approaching visitors and decide whether they were welcome.

Interestingly, Hum’s “town status” isn’t about size at all. It was granted medieval town privileges such as fortified walls, gates, a church and local governance, which is why this tiny place of just a handful of residents still officially holds the title of “town.”

It seems protecting your community was a high priority in the 1500s. Fair enough too when your entire town fits inside a set of stone walls, you probably become quite attached to keeping it intact.

Two local industries keep this tiny town ticking over – grappa and truffles. Both proudly showcased in small shops at the top of the village. Samples are generously offered, encouraging visitors to linger and taste their way through Hum’s local specialties.

Grappa has never been our drink of choice, but Jeff is firmly in the truffle camp. Me… not so much. I’ve never quite understood the fascination, or the price tag, attached to truffles. I even tried truffle chocolate while there, in the spirit of open-mindedness. Unfortunately, it didn’t change my opinion. Still not for me.

It seems we were zig-zagging our way across Istria in search of food. Eventually, we stopped in the town of Buzet for lunch, choosing a mix of savoury and sweet börek. I had quickly developed a fondness for the blueberry version on our Istria travels, an unexpected favourite.

Another simple lunch, another small town, and another reminder that sometimes the best travel days are stitched together by very ordinary moments.

We sat in the park to eat, watching local life drift by, before setting off again for our final destination of the day – Opatija on the eastern coast of Istria.

Catherine & Jeff