We left Opatija early, pointing our little red Fiat north, crossing back into one of our favourite countries – Slovenia, on our way to our next overnight stop in Kobarid.

But first, a detour.

And, what a stop it was. Clinging dramatically to the entrance of a cave halfway up a cliff, the castle looked less like a real place, a fortress build into a cliff, and more like something invented for a fantasy film. It seemed impossible to believe people had built this over 600 years ago.

Ambitious, impressive and seemingly impossible.

It would have taken years to build, sourcing materials from the local area. It’s an extraordinary piece of engineering even by today’s standards. Built beneath a natural rocky arch high in the cliff face, it’s clear that Predjama Castle was designed to be difficult to access and even harder to conquer. A true fortress.

Looking up at it, it was hard to imagine medieval builders building something so ambitious with the tools available at the time. The rock itself became part of the fortress, using the cave for shelter and the cliff for defence.

I couldn’t help but wonder not only how they built it, but why someone looked at a cave in a cliff and thought, yes, that seems like an excellent place to build a castle. Go figure.

Climbing the stairs, peering through hidden corners and wandering the rooms and passageways of this unbelievable castle made for one of the most immersive and unexpectedly educational experiences of our trip.

It was surprisingly easy to imagine life here centuries ago – the cold stone, the isolation, the simplicity of daily life, and the constant awareness that safety could never be taken for granted.

I found myself wondering whether the people who lived here ever ventured beyond the castle walls, or whether the world outside felt too uncertain.

One feature that particularly fascinated me was the well for fresh water. Hidden deep within the rock of the hillside inside the castle, water slowly seeped through the stone to be collected. An ingenious solution and another reminder that survival here depended on making the landscape work for you.

And then there was the view. Looking out from the castle over the village below and the surrounding countryside, it was hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for such a dramatic place in Slovenia.

One small detail did make us smile. The castle toilet has clearly received a few upgrades over the centuries, complete with a smooth wooden seat and lid. Not exactly what I’d imagined for 15th century castle living… although its location in the castle wall remained very much original, which turned out to be historically significant.

Predjama Castle became famous in the 15th century as the home of the knight Erazem Lueger — part local hero, part outlaw, depending on which version of history you choose to believe.

Legend tells that Erazem fell into conflict with the powerful Habsburgs and became known for raiding estates and causing trouble across the region. Protected by the castle’s seemingly impossible position high in the cliff, he managed to resist a lengthy siege.

His downfall, however, came not through military brilliance but betrayal.

According to the story, one of his own men revealed his nightly ablutions routine to the enemy and signalled the perfect moment to fire a cannon – while Erazem was using the toilet, inconveniently positioned on the outside wall of the castle.

Quite the shot… and not exactly the heroic ending he might have imagined.

An extraordinary castle, an elaborate siege, and one very unfortunate trip to the toilet.

Catherine & Jeff