Zadar – An Island Fortress

We had been looking forward to getting to the Dalmatian Coast.  The famous Dalmatian seafood dishes were a big drawcard.

Zadar is the oldest Croatian city, situated on the Adriatic Sea.   It’s not only the historical center of Dalmatia, but a very popular seaside destination referred to as the entertainment capital of the Adriatic.  We were there out of tourist season, but boy, it was already crowded.

Hello cruise ships!  We try to avoid destinations that are popular with cruise ships but a popular seaside port is always going to attract tourists in any form.  This was our second encounter with cruise ship tourists, only to be outdone by Venice.

We weren’t looking forward to the tourists but we were looking forward to the history, culture and the seafood!

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A vibrant seaside city with a busy history dating back to the 9th Century BC.  It’s been passed around, occupied, ruled and dabbled with over the centuries by many including the Romans, the Venetians, the Austrians and Hungarians.

Along with the cruise ships, it’s a favoured port for the big yatchs.  Who doesn’t enjoy a glimpse of the rich and famous.

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The Old Town was built on an island surrounded by a 3km fortress wall.  There’s a bridge connecting the Old Town to the mainland, a good walk with our travel packs.

The Landward Gate into the Old Town with the Lion of Saint Mar centre top, a symbol of the Republic of Venice.  A Venetian contribution to the ecclectic architecture.

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Cobbled streets – a signature feature of most of the old towns in this part of Europe.  They can be slippery!

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St Donatus Church, built in the 9th century, named after Bishop Donatus of that time.

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We stayed in a private apartment in the middle of the Old Town.  It was a little noisy with bars underneath but lots of walking and natural tiredness remedied that.

While wandering around in the afternoon, we began our Dalmatian seafood odessy adventure with a light mid-afternoon snack – a delicious light fish soup.  A perfect start.

It’s always beer o’clock….

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A jet ski competition enthralled us for a while.

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This fellow, sitting and staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is Spiro Brusina. Born in 1845 – he was a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official – a busy person indeed.

What have you got in there, Spiro?

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Sea Organ

A visit to Zadar is not complete without a visit to the Sea Organ.  The Sea organ is an architectural sound art object, an experimental musical instrument, which plays music by way of the sea waves trapping air and pushing the air up into tubes located underneath a set of large marble steps – check out what it sounds like here.

A smaller marina on the outside of fortress wall.

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Ah, those Romans are everywhere.  Even they had to eat!

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That night, while walking, we stumbled across a delightful courtyard restaurant tucked out of the way near some Roman ruins.

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One of the waiters?

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Brodet Fish Stew – this dish had been on Jeff’s wish list since tasting it at a Croatian restaurant in Canberra.  His opinion – not quite as good as found in Australia.  A long way to go for that experience!

Seafood Risotto is always on my radar.

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Croatians are very generous with plying diners with after dinner liqueurs (free of course).  I don’t mind the occasional grappa, but the one here was pure rocket fuel.  Jeff enjoyed both glasses although it did raise his eyebrows a little.

Jeff & Catherine xx

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