We’d been looking forward to reaching the Dalmatian Coast. The seafood was certainly part of the attraction (we’d heard plenty about the fresh fish, shellfish and traditional Dalmatian dishes) but there was another reason Zadar had made it onto our itinerary.

Someone had told us about the sea organ. Built into the sea wall, a series of pipes use the movement of the waves to create music. It sounded intriguing enough that we decided we had to hear it for ourselves.

So, Zadar it was.

Situated on the Adriatic Sea, Zadar has a long and fascinating history and a beautiful old town surrounded by water. It’s also a popular seaside destination and, even though we were travelling outside the main tourist season, it was already busy.

And yes… there were cruise ships.We’ve never been particularly drawn to places dominated by cruise tourism, but Zadar is an important Adriatic port, so tourists are very much part of the landscape.

We were happy to look beyond the crowds.

We had come for the history, the culture, the Adriatic and, of course, the seafood.

Zadar is a vibrant seaside city with a long and complicated history. Over the centuries it’s been occupied, ruled and influenced by everyone from the Romans and Venetians to the Austrians and Hungarians, each leaving their mark along the way.

These days, alongside the cruise ships, Zadar is also a popular port for rather large yachts.

And really, who doesn’t enjoy a little glimpse into the lives of the rich and famous?

The Old Town

The Old Town of Zadar sits on a peninsula, surrounded by historic fortifications and connected to the mainland by a bridge.

With our travel packs on our backs, we made our way across and through the impressive Landward Gate, marked by the Lion of Saint Mark, a lasting symbol of Venice and one of the many reminders of the city’s layered past.

Beyond the gate, we were ready to explore.

Cobbled streets – a signature feature of most old towns in this part of Europe. Beautiful to look at but when wet, surprisingly slippery!

St Donatus Church. Built in the 9th century, which is just casually old by European standards. Another reminder that wandering these streets means constantly bumping into centuries of history.

We stayed in a private apartment right in the middle of the Old Town. It was a little noisy with bars below, but after a full day of walking, natural tiredness took care of that.

While wandering around that afternoon, we began our Dalmatian seafood adventure with a light mid-afternoon snack – a delicious fish soup.

A perfect start.

And, of course…

It’s always beer o’clock somewhere.

Down by the sea, a jet ski competition caught our attention for a while. We stopped to watch the racing because apparently you can find entertainment just about anywhere when you’re wandering without a schedule.

And then we met Spiro.

Sitting quietly outside the University of Zadar, Spiro Brusina appears to be contemplating a shell in his hand. Born in 1845, he was a zoologist, explorer and cultural and public official, clearly a man who kept himself busy.

I couldn’t resist having a closer look.

What have you got in there, Spiro?

Sea Organ

A visit to Zadar is not complete without a visit to the Sea Organ.  The Sea organ is an architectural sound art object, an experimental musical instrument, which plays music by way of the sea waves trapping air and pushing the air up into tubes located underneath a set of large marble steps. We spent time sitting on the steps during the time, and revisited after dark which gave a completely different experience. At night it sounds quite eerie.

A smaller marina on the outside of fortress wall.

That night, while wandering around, we stumbled across a delightful little courtyard restaurant tucked away near some Roman ruins. Just the sort of place we love finding.

Brodet Fish Stew had been on Jeff’s wish list ever since he’d tried it at a Croatian restaurant back home in Canberra. So, naturally, it had to be ordered.

His verdict? Good, but not quite as good as the one in Canberra.

A long way to go for that experience!

Seafood Risotto is always going to catch my eye, and this one didn’t disappoint.

Croatians are also very generous with the after-dinner liqueurs, mostly free of course. I don’t mind the occasional grappa, but this one was pure rocket fuel! Jeff happily enjoyed both glasses (his and mine), although I did notice a slight raising of the eyebrows after the first sip.

And that’s a wrap on Zadar.

History, seafood, wandering, a little rocket-fuel grappa and the unforgettable sound of the Adriatic. Not a bad few days.

Catherine & Jeff