There are some places that ease you gently into a holiday.

Sri Lanka is not one of them.

We landed in Colombo expecting warm air, a change of pace, exotic fragrances and spices and a quiet introduction to a new country and culture. Instead, within minutes of leaving the airport, we found ourselves strapped (well, one of us was) into what felt less like a taxi and more like an unguided missile.

Our driver launched confidently out into Colombo traffic, weaving between buses, tuk-tuks, motorbikes, trucks and cars with a level of confidence that suggested lanes and traffic rules were polite suggestions. Horns blared relentlessly. Vehicles appeared from nowhere. Every gap, no matter how small, was quickly filled.

At one point, gripping the seat a little tighter than my quiet dignity portrayed, my eyes settled on a tiny Virgin Mary fixed to the dashboard, her head gently bobbing with every swerve, acceleration and sudden brake. This didn’t give me the reassurance I was looking for.

Then I noticed something else.

There was only one seatbelt in the entire car.

And the driver was the one wearing it.

It was then that I realised there was nothing else to do but give myself over to blind trust and hang on.

Because it was obvious there was an unspoken rhythm to the whole traffic thing. An organised chaos where everyone knew the traffic dance, except us. Somehow it just worked.

Despite our dramatic introduction to Sri Lankan roads, we arrived at our hotel in Colombo completely unscathed. We were staying at the Kingsbury Hotel near Galle Face Green in the heart of Colombo and quickly settled in,

When in Sri Lanka, always make time for a cup of tea.

From the quiet and stately tea rooms, back to the streets, where you can learn so much about a city and its people. Colombo was a cacophony of noise, people and colour.

We wandered through shopping districts with no particular destination, fascinated by what seemed complete disorder but slowly revealed its own hidden order. Shops spilled into streets, streets spilled into markets, and everywhere there was something competing for your attention.

You could buy almost anything imaginable.

Fresh fruit and vegetables were laid out along the roadside. Next door might be kitchenware stacked floor to ceiling, followed by mobile phones, electrical goods and every gadget you never knew you needed.

It’s busy, chaotic and endlessly fascinating.

After a couple of days exploring and finding our feet, it was time to leave the city behind.

Next stop: Kandy.

A relaxing trip on the train from Colombo to Kandy but this would become one of the highlights.

It was a train journey that began in central Colombo, soon winding out through suburbia and into a rural landscape. Sri Lanka began to reveal a completely different side of itself as we gazed out the carriage windows, easily slipping into the slow, mesmerising rocking that trains evoke. Camera in hand, we settled in for the ride. travelling slow enough for photographing life along the railway line.

And then, we were completely out in the countryside. Jeff was thrilled to be able to lean out to see more.

Kandy

Nestled among the lush green hills of central Sri Lanka, Kandy feels worlds away from Colombo although there’s still a bustle in the city centre.

Often described as the cultural and spiritual heart of Sri Lanka, Kandy was the island’s last royal capital and remained independent for centuries while other regions came under colonial rule.

At the centre of Kandy’s identity is its deep Buddhist heritage. Perched high above the city, the towering white Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue has become one of Kandy’s most recognisable landmarks, making the climb and subsequent views across the city worthwhile.

But beyond the history books and famous landmarks, Kandy is also a city of bustling markets, daily rituals, quiet moments of devotion, traffic noise and busy people going about their business. For us, it was the perfect place to wander, watch and experience daily life.

In the heart of Kandy sits the tranquil Kandy Lake (or Bogambara Lake) its still waters look elevated above the city (a landscaping trick). Created by the last king of Kandy in 1807, it’s a peaceful contrast to the hustle and bustle just beyond its edge.

One of our favourite places to explore in Kandy was the food, herb and spice market.

Everywhere we wandered, we were met with smiles, greetings and curious questions. There was an openness and friendliness that made us feel less like tourists passing through and more like welcomed guests.

One encounter still makes me smile whenever I look back at the photos.

We stopped at a stall where one man stood proudly in front of towering piles of herbs and spices. Conversation started as it often does while travelling – where are you from?

When we told him Australia… and then Canberra… his face completely lit up.

His sister lived there.

Before we quite knew what was happening, he had his phone out, dialled her number and handed it to me.

Suddenly, there I was, standing in a market in Kandy having an unexpected conversation with his sister in Canberra.

It was around one o’clock in the morning back home.

Awkward? Slightly.

Memorable? Absolutely.

Moments like that became part of what we loved so much about Sri Lanka, not just the places we visited, but the warmth, spontaneity and connection we found along the way.

Kandy was never the end of the journey for us, only a pause along the way.

Next, we found ourselves back at the train station once more, boarding for a longer climb into the highlands. This time the train would take us deeper into Sri Lanka’s interior, past small hillside villages, and through the endless tea plantations.

Our destination was Ella.

And the journey there would prove to be just as memorable.

Catherine & Jeff