First Impressions of Milan

Leaving Rome behind, we settled into our seats on a Frecciarossa train, watching the Italian countryside flash past the window at speeds of up to 300 km/h.

The landscape felt different from the France we had travelled through previously. Gone were the storybook stone villages with their church steeples and hilltop castles. Instead, the train swept past clusters of concrete apartment buildings, industrial towns and everyday rural communities. This was a different Italy, and we were curious to discover it.

By the time we arrived just after lunch, we were still feeling slightly chastened after a pronunciation lesson from our taxi driver in Rome. Apparently, our enthusiastic Australian version of “Milan” had offended his Italian ears.

“Mee-lah-no,” he patiently corrected us.

I’ve been practising ever since. I certainly don’t want to offend another Italian.

Our first impression?

Milano couldn’t have been more different from Rome.

Where Rome is full of history, examples proudly on display nearly on every corner, Milan feels quietly confident. Elegant without trying too hard. Historic, yet unmistakably modern. Busy, sophisticated and effortlessly stylish.

Fashion, design, business and beautiful architecture all sit comfortably alongside centuries of history.

If I had to describe Milan in one word, it would be stylish.

The city has an unmistakable sense of confidence, reflected not only in its buildings and streets but in the people themselves.

One thing we quickly noticed was the trams. They seemed to glide through the city in every direction, becoming part of the rhythm of everyday life. Milan boasts one of the largest tram networks in the world… although, as proud Australians, we’ll happily point out that Melbourne still claims the top spot.

The Hotel Spadari Al Duomo, was our home for the next five nights. A modern hotel, with a showcase of eclectic art displayed throughout and located just around the corner from the Duomo (Cathedral).

Every evening, complimentary prosecco and nibbles before heading out to dinner were on display.

Fresh pastries, fruit, chocolates and little sweet treats were available throughout the day. Thoughtful touches that made us feel genuinely welcome.

An Unexpected Discovery: L.O.V.E.

One of the more unexpected things we came across during our wanderings was this rather provocative sculpture in Piazza Affari, home to the Italian Stock Exchange.

Officially titled L.O.V.E., an acronym for the Italian words Libertà, Odio, Vendetta, Eternità (Freedom, Hatred, Revenge, Eternity), it’s better known by locals as Il Dito (“The Finger”), for reasons that become fairly obvious at first glance!

Created by Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan in 2010, the sculpture was originally intended to remain in the square for just two weeks. Despite protests from parts of Milan’s business community, it never left.

Perhaps the most intriguing part is that Cattelan has never explained exactly what it means, insisting that its interpretation is left to the imagination of the viewer.

Whether you see it as political satire, social commentary or simply a cheeky piece of modern art, it’s certainly one of Milan’s more memorable surprises.

The Duomo

You simply can’t visit Milan without finding yourself standing in front of the Duomo.

Even after seeing countless photos, nothing quite prepares you for its sheer scale. Only when you’re standing beneath its intricate spires and endless carvings do you begin to appreciate just how extraordinary it is.

Construction began in 1386 and continued for more than six centuries, with generations of craftsmen contributing to the cathedral we see today.

Six hundred years.

Standing there, I couldn’t help wondering how many architects, stonemasons and artists left their mark over that time. How many design changes were made? How many people devoted their working lives to a project they would never see completed?

It’s an awe-inspiring building, both outside and within, and like so many of Europe’s great cathedrals, restoration is simply part of its ongoing story.

We could have taken the lift to the rooftop, but where’s the fun in that?

Instead, we tackled the 250 stairs, stopping only occasionally to admire the architecture… and perhaps catch our breath.

Reaching the top was well worth the effort. There was plenty of room to wander, rest our legs and take in sweeping views across Milan’s rooftops.

The muscle burn was temporary.

The view was unforgettable.

Shopping!

People come to Milan to shop.

Everybody knows that.

So, naturally, we spent a morning wandering through the city’s famous fashion district, admiring the beautifully curated shop windows and occasionally stepping inside when something caught my eye.

Just for a look, of course…

The price tags were enough to remind us that this was very much a browsing expedition!

The colours were bold, the designs often delightfully impractical and the creativity on display was fascinating. Even without making a purchase, it was impossible not to appreciate why Milan has earned its reputation as one of the world’s fashion capitals.

The streets of Milan’s high-end fashion district were exactly as you would imagine — elegant, understated and impeccably presented.

Compared with the busy shopping streets elsewhere in the city, this area felt almost surprisingly quiet. No frantic crowds, no jostling shoppers, just beautifully dressed people, designer windows and an atmosphere of effortless sophistication.

Returning to the everyday shopping districts, the energy changed completely. Here there were more people, more colour and plenty of opportunities to be tempted.

And guess what’s back in fashion?

Apparently, my long-retired cowgirl boots may be having their moment again. After decades sitting quietly in the back of the wardrobe, perhaps they deserve another outing!

Confession time…

There is a pair of boots coming home with me.

No, not the gold ones, and no, not another pair of cowgirl boots (although apparently they are back in fashion!).

But after wandering the streets of Milan, admiring the creativity and style that seems to flow through the city, I found a pair that I simply couldn’t leave behind.

Sometimes a travel purchase isn’t really about needing something.

It’s about the memory attached to it.

These boots will always remind me of Milan — the stylish streets, the beautiful window displays and the joy of wandering through a city where fashion is part of everyday life.

Now to work out how to fit them in my suitcase…

Discovering Balsamic: Italy’s “Black Gold”

I’d never given balsamic vinegar much thought.

That changed after we spent half an hour in a small balsamic tasting store just across from our hotel, listening to stories from our very enthusiastic host and discovering that this was far more than just a drizzle added to a salad.

Traditional balsamic vinegar has its origins in Modena and Reggio Emilia, two towns near Bologna, with a history dating back centuries. Made from cooked grape must (unfermented grape juice), it undergoes a slow, natural acidification process before being aged in wooden casks, much like wine.

And patience is the key. The minimum traditional ageing process is 12 years, while the finest balsamic vinegars may be aged for 25 years or more, becoming increasingly concentrated, complex and syrup-like over time.

No other ingredients are added.

Historically, families would maintain their own barrels of balsamic, often passing them down through generations or gifting bottles for special occasions.

Known as “black gold”, traditional balsamic vinegar has long been treasured not only for its flavour but also for its perceived medicinal qualities, with historical references linking it to digestion and wellbeing.

Our balsamic guide was passionate, knowledgeable and clearly loved sharing the story behind this unique Italian tradition.

By the end of our tasting, we looked at balsamic vinegar very differently.

Naviglio Grande: Milan’s Creative Side

After discovering Milan’s polished fashion districts and elegant streets, we wandered in a different direction towards the Navigli area.

Around half an hour’s walk from our hotel, Navigli felt like another side of the city – relaxed, creative and full of character. The area is known for its bars, restaurants, artist workshops and vintage boutiques, with a distinctly bohemian yet trendy atmosphere.

At the heart of the district is the Naviglio Grande, Milan’s oldest canal, constructed between 1177 and 1272. Once an important waterway for transporting goods into the city, today it provides a beautiful backdrop for cafés, markets and leisurely afternoon wandering.

We arrived on a Saturday when the flea market was in full swing along the canal banks. Stalls spilled along the waterway, filled with second-hand clothing, vinyl records, vintage treasures and all sorts of curiosities.

One thing that caught our attention was the impressive number of stalls dedicated to second-hand leather coats. Clearly, Milan’s love affair with leather extends well beyond the designer boutiques!

The Art of Lithography

Lithographs have always intrigued me.

While wandering through Milan, we discovered a gallery where artists were actively working on their pieces. They generously shared their knowledge with us, explaining the incredibly detailed and time-consuming process behind this beautiful art form.

Lithography requires patience, precision and a remarkable level of skill, a reminder that some forms of creativity cannot be rushed.

We loved learning about the process and watching the artists at work. Of course, we couldn’t leave without bringing home a small lithograph for our collection.

Another little piece of Milan to remind us of the creativity we found around every corner.

Lunch by the Canal

Lunch by the Naviglio Grande was one of those simple travel moments that stays with you.

Sitting beside the canal, watching the world go by, we enjoyed a relaxed meal with a rather unexpected soundtrack — 1970s heavy metal rock music drifting across the water from a nearby busker. Not quite what you might expect in a picturesque Milanese canal setting, but somehow it worked.

The combination of good food, a beautiful location and live music from an enthusiastic local performer created one of those wonderfully random travel memories that you can’t plan.

More about our very talented (and rather surprising) busker below…

Meet Georgio (aka Gesas)

And then there was Georgio.

We had enjoyed his music drifting across the canal throughout lunch, so afterwards we wandered over to introduce ourselves and let him know how much we had enjoyed his 1970s heavy rock renditions — Deep Purple, Santana and other classics that somehow felt perfectly at home beside the Naviglio Grande.

Georgio was delighted by our appreciation and generously gave us a copy of his CD, produced under his stage name, Gesas.

When he explained the name, he laughed.

“My friends call me Jesus, for obvious reasons.”

And with his long hair, musical talent and unmistakable rock-star presence, we could see exactly what he meant.

Another unexpected encounter, another wonderful memory from Milan.

An Unexpected Opera Performance

And then, while wandering the streets of Milan, we came across another unforgettable performer.

Resplendent in piercings and tattoos, he stood singing his heart out, delivering classic Italian songs and opera with a voice that, to my very untrained ears, sounded absolutely incredible.

There was something wonderfully unexpected about the scene — a modern-day street performer with a rock-and-roll appearance bringing centuries-old Italian music to life in the middle of the city.

His rendition of Nessun Dorma stopped me in my tracks.

Even without understanding every word, the emotion of the music was undeniable. It was one of those moments where you don’t need to speak the language to feel the power of a song.

And yes… it still brought a tear to my eye.

Sights from our many wanderings

One of the joys of exploring a city on foot is never quite knowing what you’ll find.

Beyond the famous landmarks, Milan revealed itself through small details — beautiful buildings, unexpected corners, street scenes and everyday moments that caught our attention.

A few of the things that made us stop, look twice and appreciate this stylish city a little more…

Milan on a Plate

Of course, no visit to Italy would be complete without exploring the food.

Milan offered everything from traditional dishes to unexpected dining experiences, and sometimes the setting was just as memorable as the meal itself.

One restaurant serving southern Italian cuisine caught our attention with a rather unusual feature — the dining chairs were actually swings, suspended from ropes hanging from the ceiling.

At the risk of breaking a hip (or spending the rest of the trip recovering!), we opted for the safer seating option.

The menu itself provided another surprise. The meat choices were limited to just two options — pork and horse — a reminder that food traditions vary greatly from region to region.

Fortunately, my delicious vegetarian chickpea dish was a perfect choice.

Another Milan memory: good food, interesting conversations and a dining experience we certainly won’t forget.

Farewell Milano

Before we leave Milan, one final observation…

We noticed this in Milan but also throughout our time in Italy – just how welcome dogs are in everyday life. A culture where dogs are simply part of the family, included in everyday life rather than left behind. They accompanied their owners into cafés and restaurants and even in supermarkets. aisles.

As dog lovers, we couldn’t help but smile.

And that’s a wrap on Milano.

We loved this city.

We loved its style, its charisma, its creativity and the confidence that flowed through its streets. We arrived expecting fashion and design, but discovered so much more – artists, traditions, unexpected encounters, wonderful food and countless little moments found simply by wandering.

Milan was a city that rewarded curiosity.

Would we return?

Absolutely.

Arrivederci, Milano.

Next stop: Torino!

Catherine & Jeff