If you’ve read any of our travel blogs before you’d know that we rarely choose a place that’s touristy or trending. The exact opposite.

Usk was another “off the radar” destination, a small town with a deep history.

Jeff had been there before, briefly, and his memory and experience sounded intriguing so I didn’t need persuading. We wanted our experience in Wales to give us a glimpse of everyday life in rural Wales. We knew there’d be history to uncover (there’s always history), but we were after a place still living simply and Welsh. Usk seemed to sit right in that space: a town where stone walls, river air, and narrow streets still held the rhythm of ordinary life.

And, so we arrived in search of something quintessentially Welsh, not in the polished postcard sense, but in the slower sense, where you can chat with the locals in cafes and pubs, wander the streets to notice daily life and walk through the surrounding rural areas.

We stayed at Glen-Yr-Afon House Hotel, a very grand Victorian country house just across the river from town. Built in the 19th century as a private residence, it still carries all the hallmarks of its era – tall ceilings, generous sized rooms, lots of stairs and corridors, and those little decorative old fashioned flourishes that take you back in time. Today it functions as a boutique hotel and popular wedding venue as well as a hotel. Luckily, it was centrally heated, warm and cosy because the temperatures outside were still quite chilly in March.

Formal dining for breakfast – how posh!

The town is compact and easy to explore on foot, with cafés, local shops and traditional pubs forming the heart of the community. We wandered its streets, getting a feel for the vibe. Locals were simply getting on with everyday life, but occasionaly would stop for a chat as we clearly stood out as visitors. Friendly and informative, they were more than happy to point us towards interesting sites or a cafe where we could enjoy a warming coffee, cake and people watch for a while.

A short walk along quiet lanes on the edge of town would reveal rolling fields, working farms amongst hedgerows and stone walls. It was early spring and the lush green abundance Wales is famous for was already emerging.

Usk Castle

At the top end of town constructed on a rise for the height advantage back when vantage points were need (I imagine) was Usk Castle. The Castle House itself is now a family home and is not open to the public except in May each year, sadly not when we were there. Before this, it has been a farmhouse, a dame school and home to a fern collector.   From what we could see, the gardens looked stunning and we would have loved a wander through.

Priory Church of St Mary

The church at the centre of town is the beautiful Priory Church of St Mary. Originally built in the 12th century as part of a Benedictine nunnery established by the Norman lord Richard de Clare. It was one of only a handful of female monastic communities in medieval Wales.

The day we visited, the church had been transformed into a fascinating community exhibition created by local parishes. Parishioners dressed in period costume brought Welsh history to life, recreating scenes of everyday village life and offering a glimpse into how closely church, community and rural living were once intertwined.

A parishioner told us the story of Saint David Lewis, a Catholic priest who secretly ministered to local Catholics in the area. Born in Wales and educated abroad, he returned during a period when being a Catholic priest was considered an act of treason under English law during the anti-Catholic hysteria known as the Popish Plot. He was arrested, tried in Usk and sentenced to death. In 1679 he was publicly executed in the town, reportedly facing his fate with remarkable calm. Local accounts suggest that many townspeople respected him, and when the brutal sentence of hanging, drawing and quartering was carried out, those gathered would not allow the executioners to continue mutilating him while he was still alive. Centuries later he was canonised as one of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales.

The pub is still very much part of the social fabric in towns like this. It was a beautiful spring day and we we sat outside enjoying a rare burst of spring sunshine. It had very much a community feel with locals drifting in and out and conversations could be heard reflecting familiarity and community.

A day in Cardiff

After several days in Usk we decided it was time for a change of scenery. Cardiff was an easy day trip with a straightforward drive and convenient parking near the city centre, leaving the car behind and exploring on foot.

As Wales’ capital city, Cardiff had a modern energy, but with traces of its rich history woven through the streets. We wandered without much of a plan, following our curiosity through shopping arcades, public squares and pedestrian streets.

Our wandering led us past the Wales Millenium Centre, along Roald Dahl Pass to Cardiff Bay, the city’s revitalised waterfront precinct.  This area has been transformed into a vibrant mix of restaurants, public spaces and striking modern architecture. It made a pleasant spot for lunch,

From there, we hopped aboard the Cardiff Bay tram service back towards the city centre where the imposing walls of Cardiff Castle made centre stage, a site that has witnessed almost 2,000 years of Welsh history.

Welsh Food – hearty, rich and nourishing

On our first night in Usk, we settled into a traditional pub for dinner at The Nags Head Inn with warm timber interiors, low lighting, and a steady hum of conversation from locals unwinding after the day. Jeff had been hoping to try pheasant, but as it was just out of season, he opted for guinea fowl instead, a rich and hearty alternative. I chose a salmon dish, equally generous and comforting, the kind of straightforward, satisfying food that you’d expect in Wales.

On another evening we found ourselves back at the Nags Head Inn.  Jeff went straight for the rabbit pie, hearty, rustic and exactly the sort of dish that suits a cold Welsh night, while I settled in again to something equally warming and simple.

What made the evening memorable, though, was the conversation with a couple at the next table described themselves as “travellers”. They went on to explain their preference for the term “travellers” rather than “gypsies,” and were open in sharing small insights into their way of life. An unexpected pub conversation that drifts naturally from polite introductions into something more human and interesting. 

The Big Pitt

One of the most striking experiences of our time in Wales was a visit to the Big Pit National Coal Museum in Blaenavon, closed during the Margaret Thatcher era. The tour took us deep underground into the tunnels, offering a raw and eye opening glimpse into the realities of life at the coal face. It was confronting with narrow tunnels and low head room and light. It was wet, cold and claustrophobic and gave you a real feel of just how physically demanding and dangerous this work once was. Our guide (a former coal miner) spoke candidly about the harsh conditions miners had endured back then.

Equally moving was the history of the pit ponies, who lived underground for most of their working lives, hauling coal in darkness for months on end, only being brought to the surface for a brief period of respite each year.

Photography wasn’t permitted underground due to safety regulations, with battery-powered devices like watches, phones and cameras being left in lockers at the top because of ignition risk in the methane-rich environment.

Our final night in Usk found us at the Three Salmons Hotel & Restaurant. Dinner was delicious: a richly spiced curry for me that was comforting and full of flavour, and a hearty burger for Jeff, simple and satisfying in the best possible way.

A final evening that tied together our time in Usk with a feeling of contentment and closure before moving on.

Catherine & Jeff