Some places call you for reasons that are hard to explain. Uluru was one of those places for us. It had been on our minds for a long time and we anticipated a different type of destination experience than our usual.

This journey wasn’t about ticking off another destination. We wanted to experience what epitimises the Australian outback, but more importantly, to give us a feel of indigenous culture, a tiny sample of the vast cultural history that is the backbone of this land.

We were lucky to be on the left hand side of the plane as we descended and banked towards Uluru Airport, giving us the perfect aerial view of both Uluru below and Katu Tjuta (The Olgas) in the distance. What struck us most was the sheer scale of the Rock – breathtaking.

Our travel style mostly means doing our own thing, avoiding crowds where possible, staying clear of busy sites. However, this is not a destination where you can simply wander entirely on your own terms. It’s protected, respected, and carefully managed, as it should be. Deciding to hire a car on arrival gave us the flexibility to move at our own pace, to pick our times and to linger a little longer if we wanted to.

Sails in the Desert was our base over the four days. It’s very comfortable with good choices for food (see our favourite dishes below), offering many free organised cultural experiences and guidance, and we couldn’t fault the staff and our overall experience there.

Uluru

Our first outing on arrival was sunset at Uluru. As the light faded and the colours changed quite dramatically across the Rock, it became one of the most quietly moving and memorable moments of the trip.

There’s something grounding about standing near the base of this massive rock, a place that’s held meaning for tens of thousands of years, where the stories, traditions and connection to Country reach far beyond what we, as white Australians, can fully understand. It dwarfs you, bringing a sense of how small you really are in the world.

A kind Dutch tourist snapped us as we watched the colours changing, and kindly shared this photo with us.

Top Tip: invest in fly headwear. The flies are horrendous!

Mala Walk, Uluru

On Day 2 we joined the free ranger-led Mala Walk at the base of Uluru, which departs each morning at 10:00am. This walk is easy and flat, making it accessible and unhurried, but it’s the storytelling along the way that really brings it to life. The ranger shared insights into the Mala people and their connection to this part of Uluru, pointing out significant sites along the way. We visited areas with ancient rock art, soaked up the natural beauty of Kantju Gorge, and gained a much deeper understanding of the landscape,. There are sections along the walk where photography is not permitted out of respect for cultural protocols, which reinforces just how important and protected these sites are. The guided walk is an experience that adds a layer of meaning you simply wouldn’t get walking it on your own.

A glimpse of ancient Anangu rock art, telling stories of indigenous life that have been passed down for tens of thousands of years. This is the one area at Uluru visitors can view Anangu rock art up close. There are other art sites around Uluru, but many are not accessible to the public due to cultural sensitivity and the need to protect the sites.

Along the Mala Walk, our ranger guided us through a series of caves at the base of Uluru, each with its own cultural significance. We began with what was described as a learning space for boys, where knowledge and cultural responsibilities were passed down through generations. Further along, we were shown areas associated with men’s ceremonial practice, before arriving at a family cave once used for everyday activities such as cooking and gathering.

One area, connected to women’s cultural practice, could not be photographed in keeping with cultural protocols as it continues to hold deep meaning for the Anangu people.

Kantju Gorge

At the end of the guided walk, you can continue along to Kantju Gorge.

After recent rain, the landscape was lush and green.

Kantju Gorge is the tallest and deepest gorge at the base of Uluru. Framed by sheer rock walls that seem to hold and reflect the light differently.

Mutitjulu Waterhole, Uluru

On the eastern/southeastern side of Uluru is Mutitjulu Waterhole, a beautifical and quiet space at the base of Uluru, where water pools in a sheltered rock basin are surrounded by sandstone walls. It’s a place of deep cultural significance for the Anangu people and a quietly peaceful place to stop and reflect.

Sunrise

We rose early one morning to experience sunrise, looking East towards Uluru from a vantage spot at Yulara, a short walk from our hotel.

Turning around and looking West, I captured a shot of Kata Kjuta showing the pretty early morning’s sun rays.

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

Having a car made a day trip out to Kata Tjuta easy and unhurried, giving us the flexibility to take our time on the walks and stop whenever we spotted a scene that took our eye.

Our first walk was the Valley of the Winds, a circuit that offers varying lengths of walks with challenges ranging through Category 2, 3 and 4. The track quickly leads you away from the car park with a gentle climb and into a vast, sculpted world of domed rock formations, deep valleys, steep paths and steps. We headed off with the goal of getting to the first lookout, but after reaching that point, decided to walk on to the second lookout.

The spectacular views and the realisation of just how long these rocks have existed all combine into something that feels both grounding and expansive at the same time. As with Uluru, the landscape reminds you of just how tiny you are in the scheme of things.

With energy to burn, we then drove around to Walpa Gorge, a shorter but equally striking walk that leads you between the straight towering walls of Kata Tjuta. The narrow gorge feels cool and sheltered compared to the open plains, and you could feel a stark dropping of temperature the further you ventured into the gorge. This walk offered a cooling and more intimate contrast to the vastness of the Valley of the Winds.

Now, for the food

Food in the Red Centre was always going to part of our Uluru experience, and we were conscious of choosing dishes that reflected the culinary tastes. Wherever possible, we looked for flavours inspired by native herbs and spices, hoping to get a small taste of the cultural culinary story of this region.

Restaurant choices were pleasing and meals very tasty, from the well appointed breakfast buffet at Sails each morning (for tips on how best to navigate a buffet, read more here), to the Pool Side Bar restaurant at Sails, and the bistro style food at Mangara Bistro & Bar, we enjoyed every mouthful.

Afer a quick four days, our time in the Red Centre came to a close and we left with a deep sense of appreciation for the scale and significance of this extraordinary part of Australia. From the shifting colours of Uluru at sunrise and sunset, to the valleys and views of Kata Tjuta, it has been an experience that feels well worth it. We take with us memories that will linger forever.

Then, we traded red earth for city streets as we headed to Melbourne for a few days before making our way home.

Catherine & Jeff