Ljubljana: a capital city with a small town soul

Leaving our gear and the little red car behind at Gostilna Lectar in Radovljica, we headed to Ljubljana for a one-night city escape.

Our original plan was to take the train, but with track maintenance underway, we swapped rail travel for a bus journey instead. Not quite what we had expected, but sometimes these little travel adjustments lead to unexpected discoveries.

And Ljubljana was certainly a discovery.

Walking from the bus station into the city centre, we immediately sensed a different energy. Slovenia’s capital felt youthful, creative and effortlessly cool. This was a city where historic buildings, riverside cafés and modern European culture seemed to blend naturally together.

We stopped at a street café, ordered our first macchiatos, and knew immediately we were going to enjoy this place. A good coffee will always confirm that.

The weather was grey and a little rainy, but it did nothing to dampen our enthusiasm. In fact, it seemed to add to the charm by softening the streets and inviting us to slow down and explore.

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Luckily, it was a Saturday, which meant the local fresh food markets were in full swing.

Even with the drizzle falling, it was a wonderful introduction to Ljubljana. The market had all the elements we love about European city life – the aroma of artisan foods, colourful displays of fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables, local crafts, and the gentle bustle of people going about their weekend routines.

We wandered slowly between the stalls, soaking up the atmosphere and watching locals shop, chat and catch up with friends.

It was exactly the kind of experience that makes a city feel alive — not just a place to visit, but somewhere people genuinely live.

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Of course, we couldn’t wander through a European food market without sampling something from the stalls.

The fresh pizzas caught our attention, and we settled on one topped with shallots, capsicum and other seasonal green vegetables on a creamy cheese base. The wholemeal crust was simple but delicious, a perfect example of how fresh ingredients don’t need to be complicated.

Standing there with our warm pizza in hand, surrounded by the sounds, smells and energy of the market, felt surreal.

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And then, amongst the fruit and vegetable stalls, we had another unexpected encounter – my second accordion sighting of the trip.

This time the music came from a very different source, with the Hari Krishnas adding their own colourful presence to the market atmosphere. They certainly added another layer of interest to our market wander.

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By evening, we headed into the Old Town to find dinner, with the streets still carrying the remnants of the day’s rain.

The cobblestones still glistened under foot and did require a little more attention with every step. Beautiful to look at, but definitely not the easiest surface after rain.

We wandered through the old streets, enjoying the relaxed evening atmosphere before settling in for dinner.

Dinner that evening was a delicious introduction to Slovenian flavours.

There was no surprise when Jeff chose the veal with truffle and potato. Hhis ongoing love affair with truffles was continuing. I opted for the Istrian pasta with porcini mushrooms and asparagus, a beautiful combination of earthy flavours that suited the cool, damp evening perfectly.

And then there was another first for me. My very first Aperol Spritz. Somehow, this classic Italian-inspired aperitif had escaped me until Ljubljana. One sip and I understood what all the fuss was about. A refreshing drink, a beautiful old town setting, and a relaxed evening wander through the streets… it was a pretty perfect introduction.

Our accommodation for the night was the Best Western Hotel, just a block from one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable landmarks – the Three Bridges.

The location couldn’t have been better. From our room, we had a beautiful night-time view of Ljubljana Castle glowing above the city, while downstairs we were right in the heart of the Old Town, where cafés, restaurants and riverside life continued well into the evening.

The Three Bridges (Tromostovje) connect the historic medieval town on one side of the Ljubljanica River with the newer city area on the other. What began as a single stone bridge was transformed in the 1930s by renowned Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, who added two pedestrian bridges on either side to create the distinctive three-part design we see today.

Plečnik’s vision was to create more than just a crossing point. He designed it as a gathering place and a graceful entrance into the heart of Ljubljana.

Sunday morning arrived with a welcome change in weather. The clouds had cleared, the sun was shining, and Ljubljana looked even more inviting.

Naturally, it was time for coffee. We found a riverside café, settled in with our coffees and watched the city slowly wake up. The Ljubljanica River is the heart of Ljubljana, and sitting beside it gave us the perfect opportunity to simply enjoy the atmosphere.

After coffee, we joined a walking tour of the Old Town, ready to discover more about this charming capital city and the stories hidden amongst its streets, bridges and buildings.

The walking history tour turned out to be one of the highlights of our Ljubljana visit. Our young guide was engaging, knowledgeable and clearly passionate about his city. He gave us fascinating insights not only into Ljubljana’s history, but also into the story of Slovenia itself.

After the tour, we decided to make our way up to Ljubljana Castle, perched high on Castle Hill overlooking the city.

It sounded simple enough. In reality, the walk through the Old Town involved a serious number of steps. Lots and lots of steps. By the time we reached the top, there was definitely a feeling of achievement. Phew!

The castle itself was a little more tourist-focused than our usual preferences, but we still enjoyed exploring its rooms and exhibitions. It offered an interesting glimpse into life behind castle walls and, of course, rewarded us with wonderful views back over Ljubljana.

It was time to say goodbye to Ljubljana and make our way back to Radovljica. We retraced our steps to the bus station, leaving behind the riverside cafés, historic streets and the lively atmosphere of Slovenia’s capital.

It had been a short visit, but Ljubljana had certainly made an impression. In just one day, we’d discovered a city that felt creative, welcoming and effortlessly relaxed.

Back to Radovljica for the evening, and time to prepare for the next chapter of our Slovenian adventure.

Catherine & Jeff

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