After our most luxurious gastronomic evening at Hiša Franko in Kobarid, it was time to swap fine dining for our little red Fiat and mountain roads, continuing north across the Julian Alps.

The Vršič Pass, part of the Southern Limestone Alps stretching between northeastern Italy and Slovenia) is an extraordinary piece of engineering, climbing through a seemingly endless series of bends and switchbacks. There are 50 hairpin turns on one side alone.

The scenery was spectacular. Towering peaks, rugged rock faces and expansive alpine views unfolded around every corner.

The roads, however, demanded a lot of care and concentration.

Narrow in places and often edging alongside steep drops with very little separating you from the valley below, there were moments where awe at the landscape and alarm for our safety existed in equal measure.

There were quite a few sphincter-clenching moments.

Leaving the high alpine scenery behind, heading back into Slovenia, we drove past ski resorts, traditional farms and picture-postcard villages before the landscape gradually softened and levelled out.

Our destination for the next few nights was the charming town of Radovljica. With its beautifully preserved old town, colourful façades and unmistakable Austro-Hungarian influence, it immediately felt quaint, interesting and welcoming.

Our accommodation was located on the original town square, and only a short stroll from one of the most spectacular viewpoints in the region, overlooking the Sava Valley and the snow-capped Julian Alps beyond.

Our home for the next couple of nights was Gostilna Lectar, a traditional inn overlooking the old town. While the restaurant was clearly popular with large tour groups, the rooms were comfortable, the location was excellent, and the building had plenty of character.

One unexpected delight was discovering the original gingerbread workshop downstairs. The sweet aroma drifted through the building, and beautifully decorated gingerbread seemed to be everywhere, a tradition the Lectar has proudly continued for generations.

The rooms were comfy and large, complete with gingerbread hearts on the pillows.  Aww…..

The old town square itself was exactly the sort of place we love. Rather than feeling like an open-air museum, it still belonged to the local community. As late afternoon slipped into evening, locals gathered for aperitifs, friends lingered over conversations, and children and teenagers turned the square into their own playground.

Surrounding us were centuries worth of history – the Beekeeping Museum, the 700-year-old Church of St Peter, the elegant Šivec House and the birthplace of the Slovenian playwright Anton Tomaž Linhart—but somehow none of it felt staged. It simply felt lived in.

It didn’t take long for us to develop our own little ritual. Each evening before dinner, we’d claim a table in the square, order a drink, and simply watch the town go about its business.

We loved staying here so much so that we extended our stay for an extra night.

It was at the Lectar that I spotted my first piano accordion for the trip, taking me down memory lane to when I played as a young girl.  Perhaps I should stay in Slovenia and go on tour??

The Gostilna (hotel/restaurant) had such an Austrian feel that we really were moved towards the traditional food of that region for our first dinner:

• Roast Pork with Saurkraut and Crackling (for Jeff)
• Beef Goulash with Dumplings (for me).  The dumplings were similar to ravioli – not quite what I expected.
• Apple Strudel – of course!

There was plenty of entertainment.

We enjoyed an outdoor eating experience at this superb location just off the main square. The view was spectacular and the Chicken with Taragon Cream and Trout was so delicious making this one of our most memorable dining experiences we had enjoyed.

The next day, after returning from our day at Lake Bled on our last night in Radovlija, we opted for a small restaurant just off the Town Square.  Keeping to the theme of Austrian food, Jeff chose the Veal Snitzel with Chips.  I couldn’t resist the Seafood Risotto.

Radovljica quietly won us over.

It wasn’t the biggest town we visited, nor the most famous, but it had a warmth and authenticity that made it easy to enjoy and feel welcome. We left with fond memories of mountain views, evening aperitifs and a genuine sense of Slovenian community.

One thing we didn’t leave with, however, was the ability to pronounce Radovljica (rah-dohv-LYEE-tsah) correctly… despite plenty of coaching from the locals!

Catherine & Jeff