We left Kandy in the morning and after hours on the train, winding ever higher through misty mountains, tea plantations and tiny hillside villages, we finally arrived in Ella towards dusk.

Nestled high in Sri Lanka’s central highlands, Ella is a small town known for the surrounding tea estates, dense forests and dramatic mountain scenery. It has become one of the country’s most loved destinations for travellers seeking a slower pace and a chance to immerse themselves in nature with spectacular view points, waterfalls and hiking trails.

The air is cooler, the hills are so green and lush and the pace is gentle and relaxed.

Ella grew alongside Sri Lanka’s tea industry during the British colonial era, when vast plantations transformed the surrounding hills and the railway was extended through the mountains to transport tea from the highlands to the coast.

Perched high above Ella, our Airbnb felt like a peaceful retreat. From our room, we looked out across the town to a panorama of mountains, where the changing light transformed the landscape throughout the day. We woke early with the sun slowly rising between the mountains to gift us stunning sunrises enjoyed from our room balcony.

Each morning was then enhanced as our hosts greeted us with a generous traditional Sri Lankan breakfast of fragrant curries, flat bread and local flavours. So delicious.

One of the things that fascinated us most about Ella was the railway itself. Not just the trains, but the way the locals used the tracks as everyday footpaths. Children walked home from school, people strolled between villages, and visitors wandered into town, all along the railway line, keeping a watchful ear out for the next approaching train.

For us, it felt wonderfully daring. Growing up, we’d been taught that railway tracks were strictly off limits. Yet before long, we found ourselves doing exactly the same, walking from our accommodation on the outskirts of Ella into town along the tracks.

It was surprisingly easy. Long before the train came into view, you could hear it coming. With plenty of time to spare, everyone simply stepped onto the grassy verge, waited as the train clattered past, exchanged a wave with passengers and then carried on as though nothing had happened.

We love discovering new places, and to experience the different ways that people go about their every day life.

Sri Lankan Cooking Class

One of our favourite experiences in Ella took place in a simple shed perched on the edge of a tea plantation.

We joined a Sri Lankan cooking class alongside a wonderful group of fellow travellers and spent the next few hours learning the art of cooking some of the country’s best-loved dishes. There was roti to roll, fragrant curries to prepare and spices to toast until they filled the room with the most incredible aromas.

Jeff’s highlight, however, had nothing to do with the cooking.

It was learning how to crack open a coconut with a machete.

Thankfully, he didn’t lose any fingers, and he was quite pleased with himself as he mastered a skill that seemed to come so effortlessly to our instructor.

When everything was finally ready, we sat down together to enjoy the feast we had created. Somehow, food always tastes better when you’ve made it yourself, and this was no exception.

Looking back, that afternoon became much more than a fun holiday activity. Years later, we still make many of those same Sri Lankan dishes at home, cooking them from scratch using the techniques we learned in that little shed overlooking the tea plantation.

Ella was one of those places that quietly worked its way into our hearts and we were sad to leave. We found it the perfect place to slow down, breathe and learn a lot more about Sri Lankan people.

But Sri Lanka still had more surprises in store.

Leaving the cool mountain air behind, we packed our bags once again and set off for a very different landscape. Our next destination was Udawalawe National Park, where wild elephants and a whole new side of Sri Lanka was waiting to be discovered.

Catherine & Jeff