Doha wasn’t originally meant to be a destination.

After weeks travelling through Europe, we could easily have treated Qatar as many travellers do, as a brief transit point between flights, a small glimpse of somewhere new and exotic through an airport window before heading home.

Something made us pause.

Instead of flying straight through, we decided to stay three nights and see what Doha had to offer.

It turned out to be one of those travel decisions that rewarded us ten-fold.

We stayed at the Al Najada Doha Hotel by Tivoli, and we wouldn’t hesitate to stay there again. Its location suited us perfectly. Sitting close to the old souq and the Gold Souq rather than among the tall buildings at West Bay, it offered something we value when we travel: the chance to step outside and wander with the locals, giving us a strong connection to place, a feel for the people.

Arriving in June, however, we were quickly reminder of one important detail: Doha in summer is so hot! Not just “put on a hat” hot, but the kind of heat that means long walks and afternoon sightseeing plans are not sustainable.

Souq Waqif: Where Doha Comes to Life

If there was one place that captured exactly why we chose to stay in this part of Doha, it was Souq Waqif.

As the sun went down and the heat dropped, the souk came to life. It was the perfect place to wander in the cool of the evening with narrow laneways filled with colourful fabrics, kitchen wares, herbs and spices amd market stalls.

Locals moved through the souk in flowing white robes and elegant black abayas, mingled with a few outsiders (like us).

Everywhere was food with the scent of spices, meats, seafood and breads drifting through the laneways, making it impossible to make decisions of where to eat.

What stood out were the vibrant colours.

The heat quickly got us to adjust our expectations during the day. Rather than trying to push through the high temperatures, we leaned into slower mornings and sought out places where culture, architecture and air-conditioning came together for maximum comfort.

What really made getting around Doha during the day effortless and far more comfortable in the heat was the city’s underground rail system. It’s easy to navigate, fast, and spotlessly clean.

Museum of Islamic Art

One of those places was the Museum of Islamic Art. It was a fairly comfortable walk from Al Najada Doha Hotel earlier in the morning, but we opted for an Uber ride back when temperatures neared 45 degrees.

Set on its own island-like setting overlooking the water, the building itself was reason enough to visit. The stunning architecture with clean geometric lines made it look like a sculpture rather than a building. The partially shaded walkway up to the Museum was cleverly designed, giving a tropical and exotic feel. Indoors, the museum offered a calm, cool retreat from the June heat and an opportunity to wander through centuries of craftsmanship, art and history from across the Islamic world.

Between the intricate textiles and tapestries, costumes, ceramics, manuscripts and decorative pieces weaving the history of Islam, we became quietly absorbed with a few hours slipping by without us noticing.

Outside, the waterfront views and the contrast between traditional culture and Doha’s modern skyline encapsulated the blend of traditional and modern city perfectly.

National Museum of Qatar

Another welcome escape from the summer temperatures was the National Museum of Qatar, although calling it simply a museum doesn’t quite do it justice. Before we even entered, the architecture stopped us in our tracks. Inspired by the desert rose crystal formations found in Qatar, the overlapping discs seemed to rise out of the landscape creating a stunning building that was curious in its design and in a way that felt futuristic.

Inside, the museum took us through Qatar’s story, from traditional desert life, camels moving across the landscape, and the pearl diving era, through to the discovery of oil and the rapid growth that followed from that, and on to the modern nation we see today.

What really stood out was just how quickly all of this has happened. It wasn’t a long ago historical slow change. It’s a recent transformation which is quite astounding.

This museum is quite immersive rather than traditional, with sound, light, film and beautifully curated displays covering quirky art to traditional examples of life in the dessert. It also gave us context for how Doha changed and developed and added another layer to the city beyond the markets and impressive skyline. The heat certainly nudged us indoors and inadvertently gave us unexpected experiences and knowledge we may otherwise have overlooked.

Doha certainly made an impression on us. By the end of our stay, one thought stayed with us: we hadn’t seen enough. This city had surprised us.

As we boarded our flight home, we agreed we’d be back one day… just not in June.

Catherine & Jeff