We’d been saying for what felt like forever that we’d save New Zealand for when we were older. Less adventurous. More… well… old.
And then, one day, we realised there was no point waiting.
A quick three-hour flight from Australia and we found ourselves in Christchurch, the first stop on our South Island road trip. It almost didn’t feel like we’d travelled overseas at all. Aside from our passports tucked in our bags, first impressions felt reassuringly familiar, yet subtly different in all the right ways.
Set in the Canterbury region on the east coast of the South Island, Christchurch is shaped by the gentle flow of the Avon River / Ōtākaro. There’s a calmness about the city that’s hard to describe, especially knowing the challenges it has faced in recent history.
It’s welcoming, unhurried and, as we would soon discover, made for exploring on foot.
As we wandered beside the gentle flow of the Avon River / Ōtākaro, it was easy to appreciate why people have been drawn to this place for centuries. Māori first settled the area around the 13th century, long before European settlers arrived in the 1850s and shaped much of the city we see today.
That English influence is still unmistakable. Many of Christchurch’s grand buildings were designed in the Gothic Revival style, giving the city an old-world elegance that’s softened by modern architecture, colourful street art and the occasional Art Deco home.
Although the devastating earthquakes of 2010 and 2011 changed the city forever, rebuilding continues with remarkable care. Historic buildings are being restored alongside contemporary designs, creating a city that respectfully honours its past while confidently looking to the future.
Among the Edwardian buildings, one artwork had us stopping in our tracks. Suspended high above the street, a house appeared to float effortlessly in mid-air. I immediately christened it “Stairway to Heaven.” It may not have been the artist’s title, but that’s the joy of public art — it invites each of us to find our own meaning.
Later, I discovered it was created in response to Christchurch’s post-earthquake rebuilding by artist Martin Boyce, making it even more thought-provoking.
The streets felt wide and neatly planned, shaped by the old tram network. It gave the suburban areas a generous sense of space, a calm, ordered, and quietly reminiscent feel of another era.
Quake City
Many earthquakes have been recorded in the region over the past two centuries, but it is the two most recent events — the 4 September 2010 quake and the devastating 22 February 2011 aftershock, in which 185 people lost their lives — that remain at the forefront of Christchurch memory.
We visited the Quake City exhibition, and found it both moving and confronting. Having never experienced a disaster of this scale ourselves, it was difficult to fully comprehend the impact. The exhibition presents the story of the 2011 earthquake with care and compassion, balancing the devastation with resilience and community spirit. It was an emotional and thought-provoking experience for us both.
The subsequent liquefaction was just as damaging as the destruction from the shaking, oozing up from the ground to cover everything. The very human practical side of city management during a disaster was front and centre with a practical example of managing a city without water or sewerage – Port-A-Loos.
It was one of the more tourist-focused sites we visited, not typically our style, but we’re very glad we made the effort.
Now for the food
There are many fabulous restaurants and eateries in Christchurch, far too many to properly explore in our short stay of four nights.
One of the highlights was the Riverside Market, a vibrant collection of food stalls and eateries. The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, with cuisines from all over the world and it was busy with a constant hum of people.
We ordered fish and chips for lunch and found a seat in a small alcove within the busy dining area. An elderly gentleman was already there, eating his own lunch, and we soon found ourselves sharing the space and, unexpectedly, a conversation. He told us he was 86, still happily married to his childhood sweetheart, and only recently retired after passing his small business on to his son.
It was one of those simple, unplanned encounters that stays with you. A brief exchange with a stranger that wove itself into our memories of Christchurch.
It’s the nighttime dinners where we love to indulge in delicious cuisines. We began our Christchurch culinary journey with a Vietnamese meal of crispy chicken with a lime mayo and fish in green curry.
The next night we discovered a fabulous Burmese restaurant. The Tea Leaf Salad sounded so interesting, we just had to try. It was delicious, and with the eggplant, beef curry and lamb skewers we enjoyed a delicious meal.
Another night, we opted for Thai. A pork and apple dish paired with a time-honoured red curry with chicken.
Christchurch Botanic Gardens
Christchurch has one of the best botanic gardens we’ve wandered through (and there’s been many). Set along one side of the Avon River, it’s meandering paths wind through well set out gardens displaying both native and imported plants that thrive in this area.
After a beautiful wander through the gardens, we made our way to the historic Caretaker’s Cottage café. Set within the gardens themselves, the old cottage courtyard was the perfect spot to pause, and we settled under the umbrellas to enjoy a relaxed mezze-style lunch.
Along the banks of the Avon River – the perfect place for a stroll.
Christchurch Art Gallery
We love a good gallery wander. Here’s some pieces that caught our eye, for no particular reason.
While on the topic of art, Christchurch boasts examples of fabulous street art. It was while wandering the city, peeking around corners and ducking down alleyways, and stumbling across what used to be uninspiring carparks brought to colourful lift that we discovered these jewels. I was then always on the lookout and wasn’t disappointed.
Thank you, Christchurch. We loved this city more than expected, so much so that I found myself thinking I could easily live here. You didn’t disappoint, revealing yourself slowly and have stayed with us long after we left.
Next stop: Oamaru.
Catherine & Jeff