Our first glimpse of the fascinating city of Phnom Penh was from the plane, arriving just on dusk. At the tail end of the rainy season, the view revealed a modern cityscape lining the banks of the Mekong. Beyond that, the waterlogged landscape stretched far into the rural surrounds.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital, is a city brimming with stories, ones that hold both deep sorrow, saddness and remarkable resilience, alongside a quiet warmth that shows through in its people today. Shaped by a colourful and turbulent history, it’s also a place where food is woven into everyday life, making it something of a paradise for those who love to explore a destination through what’s on the plate a foodie’s paradise.

A French Influence That Lingers

The streets of Phnom Penh carry a faint French influence, a legacy of Cambodia’s time as part of French Indochina. France occupied Cambodia from 1863 to 1953, and traces of that era remain in the city’s colonial buildings and green-canopied boulevards. Once known as the “Pearl of Asia,” Phnom Penh still holds echoes of that earlier elegance. This blending of French architectural detail with traditional Khmer design gives the city an unexpected European undertone.

A striking reminder of this colonial past can be found within the Royal Palace Gardens with a standalone French structure set among the golden, steepled Khmer buildings. It was shipped from France, piece by piece, and reassembled here. Its pale colour stands in sharp contrast to the gold, maroon, and terracotta tones of the surrounding traditional architecture, making it quietly impossible to miss.

A very French-like statue of the Cambodian King on horseback.

Though Cambodia gained independence in 1953, the French influence still lingers, not only in the architecture, but in the quiet presence of fresh baguettes, pastries, and coffee, now sitting comfortably alongside traditional Khmer cuisine.

Our accommodation at the Palace Gate Hotel & Resort, was chosen for its subtle colonial feel (and we weren’t disappointed), as well as its location – right outside the Royal Palace and in the heart of the city. From here, it was an easy walk to the Mekong River and other nearby sights. The pool offered a much-needed respite each afternoon from the heat.

The Royal Palace

A visit to the Royal Palace is well worth it.

This grand, golden compound, surrounded by ornate walls, serves as a powerful Khmer cultural anchor to the nation’s history. Our visit coincided with the 20th anniversary of the King’s coronation, with celebrations unfolding over four days with official ceremonies by day and fireworks lighting up the nights.

Our hotel’s rooftop bar offered a stunning view of the Royal Palace.

Knee pads and elbow guards – an essential accessory to every military uniform.

The moment you step onto the grounds of the Royal Palace, you’re met with a quiet sense of dignity. The landscaping brings a calming order to the space, setting off the opulence of the surrounding architecture. We were slightly surprised to notice that the colourful displays of flowers in the garden beds and even in the large earthenware vases were artificial.

The Throne Hall

The Throne Hall is not open to visitors, reserved instead for formal receptions and ceremonies. Peering through the doorway, all you can see is gold. At the centre sits the King’s gilded throne, flanked by smaller golden thrones and royal busts, the entire space glowing with a quiet opulence.

The famous Silver Pagoda is certainly a sight to see! Its floor is tiled with over 5,000 silver tiles, some now tarnished with age, while others still shine where countless stockinged feet have polished them (shoes off please!). The pagoda also functions as a small museum, housing over 1,650 artifacts, mostly Buddha figurescrafted from gold, silver, and bronze, and adorned with precious stones.

At the centre stands an emerald Buddha, seated atop a tall pedestal-like structure. Striking and unexpected, it draws the eye immediately.

Within the temple are exhibits of royal staff costumes, including a vibrant display of seven Khmer women’s outfits. Each one represents traditional attire for a different day of the week, beginning with Sunday on the left.

And, for the men….

In the courtyard of the Silver Pagoda is a stunning mural, stretching 642 metres in length and 3 metres in height. It was painted between 1903 and 1904 by 40 Cambodian artists. During the Khmer Rouge era, much of the mural was damaged. While sections have since been restored, others have been intentionally left in their damaged state as a quiet reminder of those dark years.

Visitors moving through the palace grounds are accompanied by traditional music, and although elephants are no longer used to transport the Royal family, their presence remains part of the site’s historical memory.

The Cambodian people hold deep affection for their King, Norodom Sihamoni, who ascended the throne on 14 October 2004, a week after the abdication of his father. As a lifelong bachelor, his eventual succession will mark a notable transition in the monarchy.

Just outside the palace gates, a park has been created as a photo gallery of his life as King, presented with the gold and grandeur that characterise the surrounding complex.

Riverside Strolling along the Mekong

A short walk from the Palace Gate Hotel leads to Sisowath Quay, a long promenade that hugs the riverbank. It comes alive in the late afternoon and evening as a gathering place for locals, tourists, and the city’s ever-present pigeons.

Street hawkers line the walkway, selling everything from inexpensive souvenirs to an array of street food. Boiled eggs, in particular, seemed to be everywhere.

We also came across a small temple where hundreds of locals were queuing to move quietly through its compact interior, lighting incense and offering prayers.

Sisowath Quay feels like a reflection of Phnom Penh’s organised chaos, showcasing a rhythm that holds religion, food, and a calmness in the same space. This is echoed in the traffic, too: not so much defined by blaring horns, but by a steady flow of vehicles of all sizes, moving in and out with an almost instinctive order that defies obvious road rules.

The Other Side of Phnom Penh

Just outside the city, Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, commonly known as the Killing Fields, stands as a witness to the tragedies of the Khmer Rouge era.

We chose not to visit the Killing Fields themselves, instead spending time at S21, or the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Once a high school, it was transformed by the Khmer Rouge into a prison where many were tortured and killed.

Now preserved as a memorial and museum, its walls are lined with thousands of photographs of those who passed through its doors. It is a deeply moving space, and a powerful reminder of Cambodia’s resolve to remember, to heal, and to rebuild.

National Museum of Cambodia

A short walk from the Mekong led us to the National Museum of Cambodia, home to one of the largest collections of Khmer art and artifacts.

During the Khmer Rouge regime (1975–1979), many aspects of Cambodian cultural life were damaged or destroyed. The museum itself was abandoned and fell into disrepair—its roof deteriorating, the gardens overgrown, and its halls becoming home to a large colony of bats. Much of the collection was lost, damaged, or stolen during this period.

Following the end of the regime, the museum was reopened and efforts were made to restore and rebuild its collection, with Cambodian artifacts gathered from within the country and abroad to help preserve and record its cultural history.

Like much of Phnom Penh, the museum reflects a city where history lingers, carefully preserved while life continues to move forward.

A City that Grows on You

Our personal take on Phnom Penh – it’s a city that grows on you.

The longer you stay, the more you want to stay, to understand its people, its history, its culture, and its rhythm. Five nights offered only a glimpse of what lies beneath the surface.

And of course, no introduction to Phnom Penh would be complete without its food…….

Catherine & Jeff